Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh

This is the route that the Chinese soldiers took in 1962 to enter Indian territory. Today known as "the hidden paradise" or "the land of dawn-lit mountains", Tawang is the place if one is looking for a heavenly tryst with nature and a heady mix of history, religion, legends - and Madhuri Dixit.




Located on unsurmountable heights of Himalayas at some 3,500 metres above sea level, Tawang is a treat for nature lovers and presents images of virgin mountain forests, exquisite gompas, quaint villages and tranquil lakes.

Complementing the scenic journey is the destination. The Jang waterfalls, locally known as Madhuri falls, are worth a watch. Bollywood actress Madhuri Dixit shot for her film "Koyla" here.

The fifth Dalai Lama, Mera Lama, set out in 1681 searching for a place to construct a monastery. One day after praying for guidance, he found his horse standing quietly on a hilltop and took it as a divine sign. Hence the name Tawang, which means chosen by the horse.




The major attraction of the place is the Tawang monastery, one of the largest Buddhist monasteries in India; an all-women monastery and Madhuri waterfalls, named after the Bollywood actress who came here on a film shoot.

The 400-year-old hilltop Tawang monastery is built like a fortress and is home to around 600 lamas. It has dormitories, a meeting hall, school, community kitchen, monuments and the main building housing the temple - Dukkang. With its narrow cobbled streets, numerous buildings and the enormous area it occupies, the gompa is like a mini city.



"Locals helped build the monastery and even today they are responsible for looking after it," said a monk, as others chanted softly in the quiet mountain air.

Inside the monastery, the huge 30-foot Buddha statue made of wood sits serenely amidst priceless tankhas (scroll-paintings) and Buddhist artefacts. Attached to the gompa is a museum which displays ancient manuscripts and precious artefacts, evocative of the centuries-old India-Tibet Buddhist trail.

The monastery has recently undergone renovation and bright paintings adorn its walls. Dances and ceremonial celebrations are held in the courtyard, the most important of which is held on the night of Buddha Purnima, the full moon night on which the Buddha was born, attained enlightenment and died.

A few kilometres away is the Thukje Chueling Nunnery run by female monks, home to around 50 of them. Only women are allowed to stay inside the monastery.

To reach Tawang, you drive for 12 hours from Assam's Tezpur town, a major Indian Air Force base. The road is a visual delight with clouds sometimes literally descending to the ground and ravines breaking the monotony of virgin forests straddling the commanding mountains.

The Indian Army war memorial at Jaswant Garh is another must visit. Dedicated to the martyrs of the 1962 India-China war, the memorial is nestled among mountains overlooking the Tawang-Chu valley.

Though China still claims Tawang is within its territory, the area is peaceful and is not affected by insurgency.

Despite increasing flow of tourists to Arunachal Pradesh, Tawang remains largely unexplored and poor roads can make the journey a really long one. Tourists also need to plan in advance, as inner line permits are needed to visit some areas in and around Tawang.

Hill Station Dharamsala

Dharamsala is a hill station in Himachal Pradesh, famed for its large Tibetan community centered around the Dalai Lama.

The Tibetan Buddhist roots of Dharamsala stretch back into the 8th century. "Dharamsala" literally means an "inn attached to a temple", and it was so until the district headquarters in Kangra became too crowded and the British moved two of their regiments in the late 1840s
to what is now Dharamsala.

This over the years grew to be district headquarters of Kangra, and the very location is now known as the Police Lines.

Currently, it is a very popular hang-out for foreigners and students of Buddhism. Indeed, it is now perhaps a little too popular - many would say the town (esp. McLeod Ganj) is little more than a backpacker ghetto. Don't come here expecting calm and tranquillity.
Tsuglagkhang Complex, Temple Road. This is the largest Tibetan temple outside Tibet, and it has a large meditation hall containing some beautiful statues and thangkas, as well as a Kalachakra temple with beautiful murals. It is the monastery of His Holiness, the Dalai Lama, and is located just in front of his residence. On the basement level of the complex you will also find the Namgyal Cafe, which is run as a work-training center for Tibetan youth
with daringly fusionesque if often unremarkable food, but great atmosphere in the evenings.

Tibet Museum
Small but interesting museum on the history of Tibet and its people.

Tibetan Library, near the Tibetan Government in Exile, with a small but interesting museum.

Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA). Stages performances of traditional Tibetan dance, music, and theatre.

Palampur, 50 km from Dharamsala. Famous for its tea gardens. The best Kangra tea is available at the Agricultural University at Palampur.

Visit the 17th Karmapa at his temporary residence at the Gyuto Tantric University in the town of Sidhbari near McLeod Ganj.

Bhagsu Waterfall, 3 km from Dharamsala.
An easy walk down Bhagsu Road through the village of the same name, then 1 km up to the waterfall itself. Despite a sign advising visitors not to venture further, the path to the waterfall is in reasonable shape, except for the final 50 meters which are distinctly dodgy,
especially in slippery weather.

If you are in for a brisk walk, climb the hill beyond Dharamkot to Triund with a beautiful view of the first peaks of the "real" Himalayas, and a wide view over the plains at its feet. As the peak is over 3000 meters, make sure to wear good shoes, carry water (some food if you like) and an extra vest or coat. At the top, even in summer, the weather can change from hot and sunny into a small snowstorm very quickly. Every year some tourists get themselves into serious trouble
this way, wearing only sandals and a T-shirt.If you want to warm up before the Triund trak, try the trek to Guna temple ( 5 km one way, through jungle and quite a climb, but you will see nature at it's best)

Dal Lake, 4 km from Dharamsala (past Naddi). Fairly well signposted, this thoroughly anticlimactic sacred pond is the color and texture of its yellow lentil namesake. Don't bother.

Newly upgraded Gaggal Airport (IATA: DHM) in Kangra, 10 km away, has flights from Delhi.The main bus terminal is in Lower Dharamsala, but some public HRTC buses to Delhi and Pathankot go all the way to the main square of McLeod Ganj.The nearest broad gauge railhead is at Pathankot and the neighboring small station of Chakki Bank, a comfortable overnight journey from Delhi. A taxi from Pathankot to McLeod Ganj takes about 3 hours.